Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Giorno primo

My first full day in Rome was incredible ... and so very exhausting. I walked for at least 10 miles, first on the class trek and then on a personal excursion with some of my classmates. We woke up and headed downstairs for a delicious breakfast, including yummy cappucinno ... nectar of the gods! Then we went to the Largo Argentina and checked out the ruins before heading to the Crypto Balbi, to check out the display of antiquities there.

Next we went to the Piazza Navona and checked out the Fountain of the Four Rivers by Gian Lorenzo Bernini.

The piazza was beautiful, full of the bustling of tourists and vendors. I loved to see the artists stands, makeshift plywood stands displaying their work for sale. Of course, some of the people were a little aggressive and I felt some tugs on my backpack as I walked but nothing went missing.

It was blazingly hot when we were there and I had already walked more than I had in a long time, plus jet lag and a bit of shock at actually being there and seeing this so things got a little hazy. It was so lovely though.

Our next stop was the Pantheon. Before we came around the corner, Dr. Weber stopped and told us to prepare ourselves. The sight of the outside of the Pantheon was quite breathtaking. It looms so much larger in person than any photograph can convey.

After the shock of walking up to this enormous structure, the next feeling I very clearly remember is on of relief ... from the sweltering heat. Under the shade, resting my back up against the delightfully cool marble of the 16 ft thick walls and giant pillars, I was able to catch my breath. And once I overcame the physical distraction I had my breath taken away once more when we walked inside.

It is magnificent. Words are insufficient. This ancient building seems to have absorbed the sense of wonder and worship from all of the centuries of visitors and it radiates this feeling back toward you when you enter. I felt so genuinely and indescribably peaceful from the moment I walked in. There are signs posted and periodic announcements in multiple languages asking that visitors remain silent. For me this was utterly unnecessary since I had little desire to say anything at all.

Every few feet as I made my circuit around the interior I had to stop again to catch my breath as I caught sight of another sculpture, carving, or painting inset into niches around the enormous room. The occulus let in a brilliant beam of light that illuminated one particular niche.


I wish that either my words or my photographs would do this place justice but they fail me. This seems to be one of the things that one really must experience to fully understand.

We also headed to Santa Maria sopra Minerva, where among other things I stood in front of a carving of Christ by Michelangelo.

We finally visited San Ignatius, whose relatively simple exterior does not even hint at the rich Baroque interior. On entering I was bathed in the echoing sound of organ music, washed in soft light reflected down from the high windows and dazzled by the tromp l'oeil ceiling, which blended seamlessly with the carved finials and columns which led up to it. 

At this point in the day I was utterly exhausted and rather more than willing to call it a day, head home to the hotel and fall into a deep sleep; however sometimes it is good to have friends that will push you further than you would normally go on your own. Rather than wasting an evening lazing in the hotel, a small group of us decided to head out to explore more of Rome.






I had my first gelato of the trip! Limone e melone ... ultimately my favorites.


We first headed toward the giant confection of a building that is the Vittorio Emmanuel II monument. Seriously, it kind of looks like a wedding cake topper ... ornate and almost ridiculously white in the sun.

We could see the Colosseum in the distance and so we headed in that direction, walking, talking and people watching. Fun to get to know each other better.

We ended up in front of the Colosseum, which was simply amazing ... this iconic building looming large than life in front of us against an almost impossibly blue sky. What a way to start our trip to Rome.



We had dinner at a restaurant nearby, where we had an annoyingly condescending waiter (thankfully a rare experience during the remainder of the trip. After dinner, we were ready to head back so we jumped on the 75 bus ... heading the wrong way. So 9 pm on our first full day in Rome and our little band of 5 was lost. We wandered around for about an hour until we found ourselves at Termini, where we caught a cab back. What a day!

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